"People of my ancient generation tend to be a bit wary of sushi. Raw fish was alien to most of this country until very recently, and even now many diners don’t like the taste of nori, the seaweed wrap round most sushi. But on a recent visit to Tokyo, I went to a Michelin star Sushi restaurant where we ate rather large (two bite-size) sushi, many without the nori, but with raw fish of almost any seafood or fish you could think of.

My anglicised version doesn’t have any nori, and is more like a posh starter than the quick snack you might buy at a sushi bar, and I have dispensed with the classic lozenge shape. But the flavour is deliciously Japanese."

As seen at the BBC Good Food Show Summer 2019.